Why your fridge is not cooling – common causes and what to do

Five minutes of checks before you call anyone

Run through these first – a surprising number of fridges are "fixed" here:

• Has someone turned the thermostat/temperature dial down? Set it to the middle.
• Does the door close properly? Trap a sheet of paper in the rubber seal (gasket) and pull – if it slides out easily, the seal is worn.
• Is the fridge packed tight, or something blocking the vents? Without airflow the lower section stays warm.
• Is the condenser coil at the back caked in dust? Is the fridge at least 10 cm from the wall?
• On a frost (non-frost-free) fridge, is there 2–3 inches of ice in the freezer? Defrost it.
• Low voltage? After load-shedding the compressor may not start for a few minutes – that is normal.

Compressor running, still no cooling

The compressor at the back is warm and vibrating, but the inside is not cold – this usually comes down to three causes. One: low refrigerant from a small leak; the sign is ice forming only in one corner of the freezer, or not at all. Two: on a frost-free fridge, a failed defrost heater, timer or sensor – a slab of ice builds on the evaporator and blocks the airflow, so the lower section stays warm; switching the fridge off for a day fixes it temporarily, then it returns. Three: a dead evaporator fan – the freezer’s cold never reaches the fridge section; suspect it when you cannot hear the fan.

If there is a leak, refilling gas alone is not a fix – it drops again within weeks. A good technician finds the leak first (nitrogen pressure test), brazes it, then vacuums the system before charging. Ask in chat whether those steps are included.

Compressor will not start at all

The light is on but there is no sound from the back, or it "clicks" and stops after a few seconds – most likely the relay/overload protector or the start capacitor, both relatively cheap parts. Dhaka’s voltage swings kill them often.

A failed compressor itself (seized motor or burnt winding) is the expensive case. An honest technician measures the windings with a meter before declaring the compressor dead – do not accept "the compressor has gone" without asking about the test. Whether a new compressor is worth it on an old fridge depends on the fridge’s age and the compressor’s price.

Too cold, or switching on and off constantly

Vegetables freezing, or the fridge running almost non-stop – could be the thermostat or door seal, or a dust-choked condenser that cannot shed heat. Frequent on-off cycling (short cycling) shortens the compressor’s life; check whether a stabiliser is fitted.

On newer inverter fridges a faulty PCB causes odd behaviour – if the display shows an error code, send it to the technician in chat.

Before and after the technician

In the AmarKarigor app, open the "Refrigerator" category to see nearby technicians. In chat, give the brand, frost or frost-free, the age, and which of the symptoms above match; a photo of the ice on the evaporator helps. The technician states the visit fee, and the profile’s "typical price" range lets you compare.

Afterwards: what was replaced (relay/gas/heater/compressor), which gas, and how long the warranty runs – keep it in writing in chat. Recording the price in the app gives the next customer an honest signal. After gas work a fridge takes 6–12 hours to cool fully – do not panic if it is not cold immediately.

Five habits that keep a fridge healthy

• Keep it away from the wall and dust the rear coil twice a year
• Let hot food cool before it goes in; keep the door open for less time
• On a frost fridge, defrost when the ice reaches half an inch – never chip it with a knife
• Use a stabiliser in load-shedding areas; wait 3–5 minutes after power returns before switching on
• Wipe the door seal with warm water occasionally and replace it when it cracks